Wer bewohnte Wüste im Iran sehen will, wird von Reiseführern häufig nach Garmeh in der Wüste Dasht-e Kavir geschickt. Hätten wir nicht zuvor Meşr kennengelernt, hätten wir dieses Wüstendorf wohl tatsächlich als Inbegriff für Ruhe und Beschaulichkeit empfunden. Selten sieht man Menschen in den engen Gassen zwischen den traditionellen Lehmbauten.
Im Zentrum stellen drei Frauen in der Mittagshitze Körbe aus Palmenblättern her. Wir werden von einem Ehepaar zu Çay und Datteln eingeladen und bekommen auf dem alten Handy Fotos ihrer Kinder gezeigt, die längst in die große Stadt gezogen sind.
Garmeh ist braun. Ein erheblicher Teil liegt in Ruinen, drumherum wurden neue Lehmhäuser gebaut. Platz ist in der Wüste ja genug. Regen ist in dieser Region nicht das Problem für das Gemäuer. Die bewährte Bauweise muss allerdings sehr warmen Sommern und katen Wintern standhalten. Man verwendet daher optimale Gemische aus Lehm und Sand sowie Stroh. Der zerfallene Teil der Stadt bietet heute einen kleinen Irrgarten zum Erkunden und einen wunderschönen Ausblick auf die an die Stadt grenzenden Oasenwirtschaft.
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